..The Challenges of Teaching in Mountainous Regions

[نورالدين بليغ]

The Challenges of Teaching in Mountainous Regions:
The Journey of a Teacher in the Heart of the Rugged Atlas (1984-1993)**
ترجمة تحديات التعليم في المناطق الجبلية...الى الانجليزية:
**Introduction: Destiny Leads Me to the Mountain Tops**

At the beginning of the 1983/1984 academic year, destiny willed that I join the Teacher Training Center in Rabat, where I spent an intensive academic year preparing myself for a noble mission. I did not imagine then that my next destination would be the heart of the majestic Atlas Mountains, the province of Azilal, characterized by its rugged terrain that challenges hikers and its rigorous cold that freezes faces in autumn and winter, where snow falls abundantly to cover everything in a silent white. These harsh natural conditions were not the only challenge awaiting me, as other difficulties loomed on the horizon, such as the network of rough roads that hinders movement, the intermittent and scarce means of transportation, and above all, the barrier of the Amazigh language, which constituted an obstacle to communication in a society proud of its language and culture.

**Chapter One: Azilal... The Starting Point Towards the Unknown:**

When my feet touched the city of Azilal, I received my assignment decision from the education delegation, which entrusted me with the responsibility of working within a school group named "Abachkou," located in the heart of the remote rural commune of "Aït Bou Oulli," more than a hundred kilometers from the provincial center. This distance meant an arduous journey that began in the commune of "Aït M'hamed," located about twenty kilometers from Azilal, followed by another stage towards the caïdat of "Aït Bouguemaz," which was sixty additional kilometers away, and ended with my arrival at my workplace in the commune of "Aït Bou Oulli," at an estimated distance of thirty more e to the rugged nature of the unpaved road and the steep slopes surrounding it on all sides. The exhausting journey took a full six hours to cover a distance of no more than sixty kilometers, which sowed feelings of anxiety and fear in me throughout the trip, and I realized then the magnitude of the challenge that awaited me. Merchants used to exploit these trucks to transport their goods to the market of the commune of Aït Bouguemaz, which is held every Sunday. They would spend Saturday night in the modest cafes of the market in preparation for Sunday, the day of the real weekly market. I spent that night in one of these cafes that lacked the most basic necessities of life; no clean water, no electricity, and not even sanitary toilets. It was another harsh night where I did not get a wink of sleep.

At the dawn of Sunday, the long-awaited market day, the principal of the Abachkou school group welcomed us at the headquarters of the Aït Bouguemaz school group, as we had not yet reached our original workplace. The purpose of this meeting was to get acquainted with the school schedules and educational levels, and to sign the official entry report. But the surprise was shocking; no school level was assigned to me or three other teachers, as it was revealed to us that we were "surplus" and that our professional future was on hold pending new appointments that might or might not come.

**Chapter Four: Towards Aït Bou Oulli... and the Abandoned School:**

After the Asr prayer (afternoon prayer), we decided to rent another truck to take us to our new workplace in Aït Bou Oulli, which is about thirty kilometers from Aït Bouguemaz. This journey was no less difficult than the previous one, as the road was rough and the slopes dangerous. We were often forced to get off the truck when it encountered insurmountable obstacles, and we walked on foot, preceding it on some steep slopes to cross the road safely before climbing back on. After much hardship and difficulty, we finally arrived at the Abachkou school, which consisted of three dilapidated classrooms that looked abandoned, and broken desks and blackboards that testified to neglect. There was also a small house inhabited by the principal and his family. As for the other teachers, whether old or those of us who were surplus, they used the remaining classrooms for studying and sleeping in harsh conditions. For those of us who had no teaching duties assigned, we spent most of the school hours outside the school, feeling lost and uncertain. The principal kindly suggested that we make use of one of the two rooms in the house belonging to the institution, but on the condition of maintaining a quiet atmosphere and not disturbing him and his family. After spending two nights in that cramped house, some problems began to arise, which prompted me to request permission from the principal for us surplus teachers to return to the Aït Bouguemaz area, where we had learned of the existence of simple houses for rent, a solution that seemed more comfortable to us at least temporarily, provided that we remained in contact with the principal via the caïdat's phone or the post office to follow up on any news regarding our appointments.

**Chapter Five: A Temporary Respite in Aït Bouguemaz... and the Beginning of Friendships:**

To return to Aït Bouguemaz, we had no choice but to wait for the market day again to ride one of the trucks heading there. Upon our arrival, we found some teachers residing in the area, and they welcomed us with great generosity and offered us to share the accommodation they occupied. Although we aspired to rent a separate house that would give us some privacy, their insistence on hosting us stemmed from the goodness of their hearts and the spirit of solidarity that prevailed among them, so we accepted their offer gratefully – may God reward them. We divided the roles among ourselves to take on the responsibilities of the shared house; we took turns preparing meals, cleaning the modest place, and fetching water from the nearby well that was our only source of water. We devoted the rest of our time to enjoying the magnificent nature that surrounded us on all sides. We took long walks through the vast green meadows, climbed the high mountains that surrounded the area like silent guardians, and played football and other sports activities in the fresh air. In the evening, we would gather to exchange conversations on various topics, discussing our dreams, aspirations, and shared fears. We also used to spend time playing cards and checkers, as well as other simple games that added an atmosphere of joy and entertainment to our evenings. Those nights were not without a special touch associated with the enjoyable stories and jokes that added a lot of beautiful spirit and amusement to our days there, and alleviated the burden of waiting and anxiety. Our life continued in this way for nearly a month and a half, and we lived in the hope that the near future would bring us good news regarding our appointments.

**Chapter Six: The Good News of Assignments... and Another Journey on Foot:**

At the beginning of the first week of November of the same academic year, we received a phone call from the principal requesting our urgent presence to receive the new assignments. This call marked the beginning of a new stage full of different experiences and challenges. To obtain these long-awaited assignments, we had to return once again to the Abachkou school in the commune of Aït Bou Oulli. Unfortunately, this coincided with the absence of any suitable means of transport at that time, as the day of the weekly market had not yet arrived. Given the importance of receiving the assignments and joining our new workplaces as soon as possible, my friend and I decided to venture out and walk the thirty kilometers separating us from the principal.

With the dawn of the following day, we set out on our journey on foot. Although the walk was tiring and arduous, it was not without moments of excitement and beauty offered by the enchanting nature surrounding us with its high mountains, deep valleys, and pure air. Our journey became more joyful when we noticed the warm and sincere welcome from the kind residents of the area who greeted us with genuine smiles and encouraged us with words full of hope and optimism, even going so far as to offer us cold water and some modest food whenever we passed by one of them, which made the road seem less difficult and more humane.

At sunset, we finally arrived at the Abachkou school, where the principal welcomed us very warmly. We received the assignment decisions from him and spent the night there in the company of the employees of the commune of Aït Bou Oulli, who honored us during our stay – may God reward them for their generosity. The next morning, we began the return journey to Aït Bouguemaz on foot as well, carrying new hope and aspirations for the future. The journey was enjoyable despite the fatigue, as it left a special impression on our hearts and a feeling of accomplishment and challenge overcome.

**Chapter Seven: A Temporary Farewell... and Departure for Aït Aamir:**

Upon our return to the commune of Aït Bouguemaz, we gathered our modest belongings in preparation for our transfer to our new workplace known as the Aït Aamir school group. The preparation was not easy, as we waited once again for the arrival of a truck to take us to the city of Azilal, the starting point for our new destination. The moment of saying goodbye to our fellow teachers who had hosted us was very moving, although our stay with them did not exceed a month and a half. My memory still retains their names, one by one, and I pray in their absence for goodness and blessing in recognition of their warm welcome and kindness towards us in those difficult circumstances. After our arrival in the city of Azilal, we spent the night at the house of a colleague we had met during our stay in Aït Bouguemaz, who opened the doors of his home to us with a warm heart. The next morning, we took a bus heading towards the city of Beni Mellal, and from there, we continued our journey to the town of Timoulilt. From Timoulilt, we were forced to rent a large, illegal taxi (a "khattaf") to reach the center of the Aït Aamir school group due to the rugged and winding nature of the mountain roads leading to it. After the difficulties of the long and tiring journey, we finally arrived at the school headquarters, where the principal was waiting for us. After completing the official joining procedures, signing the arrival report, and reviewing the administrative notes, we were informed of the existence of two vacant positions in two different primary schools belonging to the group. It was not easy to make the decision to separate, as we had hoped to work together due to our belonging to the same city, Rabat, although we had met each other for the first time during our stay at the Abachkou school group. But circumstances did not allow for the realization of this shared desire, and we finally resorted to a draw, which resulted in one of the positions being assigned to me in the Tansrift primary school, located sixty kilometers from the center of the institution and ten kilometers from the commune of Ouaouizeght. As for my other colleague, he obtained the position relatively close to the center. We had strongly wished to work together in one place, but we had to accept a separation that affected both of us when each left towards his new workplace, carrying in his heart a mixture of sadness and hope.

**Chapter Eight: Tansrift... The End of a Journey and the Beginning of a Mission:**

Arriving at my new workplace in the Tansrift primary school was another challenge added to the series of challenges I had faced. I rented a strong pack animal (a mule) to carry my personal belongings across the rough and narrow road leading to the commune of Ouaouizeght and from there to the isolated village of Tansrift. After completing the transportation of luggage in this primitive method dating back to ancient times, I took a large, unregulated taxi that dropped me off at the junction of two roads: one leading to the relatively lively commune of Ouaouizeght, while the other connected to the peaceful village of Tansrift. I waited a long time at this isolated point in the hope of the arrival of another means of transport to complete the remaining journey. After two hours of waiting and anxiety, I finally had the chance to ride in an old truck loaded with various goods and livestock that was heading towards the distant commune of Tagleft and passing through the town of Tansrift, which was my final destination for work. My arduous journey to my new job in the heart of the mountains was filled with difficulties and obstacles, but at the same time, it represents a true reflection of the reality of education in remote mountainous regions, where the struggle to reach the school becomes an integral part of the daily challenges faced by teachers who spend the prime of their youth serving the children of these areas.

**Chapter Nine: Tansrift in Brief... Isolation and Beauty:**

Tansrift is a small mountainous region known locally for the presence of an old copper factory that ceased operations many years ago, leaving behind a deathly silence. This factory, despite the cessation of its industrial activity, still retains its structures, equipment, and rusted machinery, which forced its owners to employ three loyal guards who take turns periodically to monitor it in order to protect what remains from vandalism and the effects of time. In addition to their responsibility for guarding the abandoned factory, these guards worked in agriculture and livestock breeding as an additional means of earning their living in this isolated region. They inhabited only three houses out of the thirty-six that were originally intended to house the factory workers during its period of prosperity and activity. Each solid house consisted of two large rooms, a kitchen, and a small bathroom, and all were connected to the drinking water and electricity network that The factory once provided, as well as a traditional wood-burning stove that spread intimate warmth during the cold winter nights. One of these houses had been specially allocated for the accommodation of teachers working at the Tansrift primary school through a special arrangement between the factory owners and the caïd of the commune of Ouaouizeght, who was keen to provide decent housing for workers in the education sector. Tansrift was only ten kilometers from the relatively lively commune of Ouaouizeght, a locality that benefited from the availability of all the essential necessities of life despite their limited nature, ranging from small markets to shops and popular cafes. Ouaouizeght was also renowned for its lively weekly market held every Wednesday, which attracted people from neighboring villages and hamlets, as well as for its privileged geographical proximity to the Bin El Ouidane dam, famous for its picturesque natural beauty and turquoise waters, and for the presence of paved roads connecting it to the cities of Beni Mellal and Azilal, the enchanting Ouzoud Falls, and many other diverse cities and regions that invited exploration. In addition, Tansrift was also close to another weekly market held every Friday in an area called Isseksi, which housed a primary school bearing the same name and which was part of the Aït Aamir school group to which I belonged. The inhabitants of Tansrift lived in their houses scattered across the mountain slopes and valleys, and continued to engage in traditional activities such as agriculture and livestock breeding as their main source of income, maintaining their simple way of life in harmony with the nature of the region. In addition to these challenges related to remoteness and isolation, Tansrift faced a particularly harsh climate in autumn and winter, where the region experienced heavy snowfall that covered everything with its dazzling whiteness, leading to the isolation and closure of roads for several consecutive days, making travel between it and neighboring regions and cities extremely difficult, if not impossible in some cases.

**Chapter Ten and Last: The Beginning of a New Life in Tansrift... and the Challenge of the Mother Tongue:**

Upon my tired arrival in Tansrift aboard that dilapidated truck, I stopped near the school, which consisted of two modest open-air classrooms without a wall or fence to protect it or delineate its boundaries. The school was closed due to the weekend. I waited a little while until one of the factory guards appeared, a kind and affable man whose name is still engraved in my memory with gratitude and respect, Mr. Bahcine Oumass. He welcomed me warmly and invited me into his modest home, where his generous wife and children offered me a wonderful welcome that reflected the authenticity and generosity of Amazigh hospitality. I spent a few hours with them during which I felt comfort and security after the long hardships of the journey, until the return of one of the teachers working in the primary school, whom I remember well: Mr. Mustapha Tazi, who was also from Rabat and who had preceded me in this region. Mr. Mustapha returned on his Peugeot "103" motorcycle from the town of Ouaouizeght. He greeted me with fraternal warmth and introduced me to the house he lived in and helped me arrange my meager belongings in the shared room that we would occupy together. During that quiet night, we exchanged conversations for long hours, getting to know each other and discovering the nature of life and work in this remote region, and it seemed to me that the nature of work here would be completely different from anything I had imagined, and even interesting despite all the difficulties. The next morning, I went to the school to welcome my dear students in the third and fourth grades, whom I was responsible for teaching French and mathematics. The welcome was warm and sincere, I discovered their innocent faces, and together we began to prepare for the start of a new and special academic year. In addition, I taught Arabic and French to all school levels in the same school, and this for the nine years I spent there, which constituted an important part of my professional and personal journey. The biggest challenge I faced at the beginning of my work was the Amazigh language, which I did not know well, and which was the mother tongue of most of the students and their parents. This forced me to make an extra effort to learn some basic words and phrases to communicate with them, such as: "Seksiw" meaning look, "Ourou" meaning write, "Seflit" meaning be quiet, "Fegh" meaning go out, "Kchem" meaning come in, and many other words and phrases that I may have forgotten over the years and the lack of repeated use.

Thanks to my personal efforts and the guidance and instructions of the dedicated and honorable inspectors and principals among them, I gradually managed to overcome most of the learning and communication difficulties in that different linguistic and cultural environment. We were three teachers working alternately in that small primary school. Another colleague was Mr. Mohamed Bouyba, a resident of Ouaouizeght, who came to Tansrift on his Suzuki motorcycle. Mr. Bouyba was very generous and was always keen to provide us with our basic needs from Ouaouizeght whenever he had the opportunity. As for Mr. Tazi and I, we resided permanently in one of the factory houses. We exchanged visits with the teachers working in Ouaouizeght, such as Mr. Mustapha El Ghrissi, Mr. Aazeb Mohamed, and Mr. Azelhad Mohamed, and others whose names my memory no longer serves me to recall – please excuse this unintentional oversight.

We faced the harshness of the climate in Tansrift, especially during the autumn and winter seasons, due to the abundance of snow that surrounded us for long days. The situation sometimes worsened considerably when we were forced to melt the accumulated snow to obtain drinking water due to the water and electricity cuts decided by the factory owners who were experiencing financial difficulties. In those difficult conditions, students were absent from school due to the difficulty of access, and the roads became completely impassable. We would not have been able to continue in those conditions without the great human support provided to us by Mr. Bahcine and the other factory guards, who never hesitated to provide us with food, water, and firewood for heating, and who were like our only family in that harsh isolation. I especially mention Mr. Bahcine Oumass here, who never failed to provide us with everything we needed, especially during the difficult days when the snow surrounded us on all sides – may God reward him and his family for the support and assistance they gave us. One difficult day when the snow reached record levels, the caïd of Ouaouizeght visited us, and I thank him for it, with his snow removal truck, in an attempt to break the siege on the region. He came to check on our well-being and that of the other residents of the area, and suggested that we leave the place temporarily until the weather improved and things returned to normal.

Those years were full of challenges and difficult experiences, but they ultimately turned into unforgettable memories, engraved in my memory like an indelible tattoo. I had the great honor of meeting new teachers who joined the same school after the departure of Mr. Mustapha Tazi and Mr. Mohamed Bouyba to other regions, among whom I remember the honorable Professor Abdelilah Derkaoui, Professor Mohamed Alami, and others who left a good mark on that school. During my stay in Tansrift, I had the opportunity to take advantage of the region's proximity to magnificent tourist sites belonging to the province of Azilal, such as the Bin El Ouidane dam with its enchanting natural landscapes, the majestic Ouzoud Falls with their breathtaking beauty, and other places that brought a sense of joy and comfort amidst those difficult conditions. I completed nine years rich in challenges and memories in that rugged mountainous region, and at the end of the 1992/1993 academic year, I obtained a transfer to the delegation of the province of Khémisset, thus ending an important stage of my professional and personal life. Here begin new challenges and different experiences that I will document in the near future, God willing.

#Nour Eddine Baligh#